The highest lake in the world.

I landed at La Paz and got a taxi straight to the bus station. I bought a ticket to copacabana, no not that one, the one by the lake in Bolivia, for 3 pounds. Buses are cheap in Bolivia. I got on one of the coach type buses and even that turned out to be extremely uncomfortable. I have never been to Beirut but that is what I was seeing, it reminded me of a a war zone! The reason is that while you are building a house in Boliva you don't pay taxes so the houses are mostly half complete. In addition a lot of the roads seemed unsurfaced. At one point there was a lake in the road that was acting  a roundabout. They are in the process of constructing a decent road but we kept being diverted onto roads that were just indescribable. It was like going off-roading in a bus. I will never again complain to the council about the state of our roads.

2 hours into our trip and we were asked to get off. Cocacabana is on a large island and there is no bridge so we went over the channel of water on a small ferry and the bus went over on a bigger ferry. We all got back on and carried on merrily on our way. Finally arrived in Copacabana and found a hotel up on the hill with a fantastic view of the beach and the lake.

Next day I took a day trip to the Isla del Sol, you will probably be able to translate that one. Lake Titikaka is at 12,555 ft. The ride out was nearly a couple of hours.The guy who sold me the ticket had written the times of the boats on the ticket. We were dropped off at the north end of the island and you could either walk to the south and pick up the return to Copacabana or for those who were less adventurous the boat would ferry you from north to south and give you an hour to look round the south part. No roadsonly paths. I set off and after paying my entrance fee (this is South America and I am a tourist) I set off on the path. I was finding it tough going with the heat and the altitude and the path was dry and dusty. I walked to the ruins that is supposedly the birthplace of the Incas, I suspect it is like going to Tintagel to see the round table. I retraced my steps and got back to where we landed in good time with over an hour to kill.

There was a local brass band that started playing, yes really. They only knew one tune and played it for a long time. There were also some ageing groupies dressed in the traditional gear clapping along. It was not like our brass bands, 'nuff said.

It was very hot and I could feel that my face, neck and solar panel had taken a pounding so I sat on log in the shade. Some people went and sat on the boat to get away from the sun. Then the boat set sail without me! I was trying to work this through in my head. I initially thought perhaps it comes back an hour later, but I was now only one of three people on the beach and it started to sink in that all was not well. I asked the other couple if they knew about the boat but they didn't speak english and pointed me towards a cafe. I found a guy who did speak english and after a short conversation we worked out that my phone was still on Peruvian time and that it was actually an hour later than I thought it was. The top route was going to be too long for me to walk and get there in time but the cafe owner sad the the coastal route was slightly shorter as you don't go over the hill in the centre of the island. With nothing to lose I thought I would give it a go and see if I could walk to the south before the ferry sailed. After half an hour I was looking at my progress on the map on my phone and it was clear that I was not going to make it. I made good time on the flat or downhill but any slight incline and I slowed to a stop with the altitude. I got to the next bay and spotted a family in their garden. They of course spoke no English but by showing my ticket and pointing to the time I explained using gestures that I was in the brown stuff. He offered to take me by boat for 300 Bolivianos but I only had 180 on me and we settled on a price (about 20 quid but cheaper than a wasted hotel on the mainland and paying for new accommodation on the island, return ferry etc.). He walked along the beach to his little boat with an outboard motor on the back and it as full of fishing nets. We hauled those out and set sail, only to turn back to the beach. He jumped out and shouted to the house and he came back with a funnel and his dad followed with a can of fuel. His younger bother came along for the ride and laid on the front, presumably as ballast.

We chugged off at what seemed like little me than walking pace. I was again checking progress on my phone and everything was looking a bit tight. We approached the south and I could see a ferry departing for Copacabana, hoping that it was not mine. With about 200 metres to go the engine cut out! He restarted it and we got another 30 metres and it cut out again. He started fiddling with it and the boat started drifting towards the rocks. It seemed to take ages but he got it started and we got to the harbour. My boat was the last one there, the last of the passengers were getting onboard. He pulled alongside and to their surprise I climbed onboard the ferry after emptying my wallet to our young entrepreneurs.

The trip back as uncomfortable but when I finally got back to the hotel I was rewarded for my efforts with  beautiful sunset over the lake complete with moon and stars. I felt sunburnt.